The principality of Monaco lies 8 miles (13 km) from Nice, with Monte Carlo often being referred to as a playground for the rich and famous. However, Monaco is an affordable place to visit for a day as it is easily accessible from Nice by public transport.
The ultimate way to arrive is by helicopter from Nice airport but it is more likely that like us, most people will opt to take the cheaper option of travelling by bus or train. We took Bus 100 from Port Lympia which departs every 15 minutes, taking approximately 45 minutes depending on traffic. Please note that the 7 day Nice travel card does not cover Monaco and although we were in possession of the card we needed to buy another ticket. However, at the bargain price of only €1.50 for a single ticket this wasn’t exactly an issue. The journey is very scenic with beautiful views along the Côte d’Azur so do try to sit on the right hand side of the bus for the outward journey if at all possible.
On reaching Monaco, we left the bus at the Place d’Armes and then walked up a steep slope to Monaco Ville (Le Rocher), one of the four quarters of the Principality. At the top of the famous Rock stands the Prince’s Palace (the Palais des Princes de Monaco). This is the official residence of HSH Prince Albert II and has been home to the Grimaldi family since the end of the 13th century when they established their sovereignty over Monaco. The State Apartments were closed at the time of our visit but are usually open to the public between March and October.
We had timed our arrival well as we were just in time to watch the Changing of the Guard, which takes place at 11.55 a.m. each day and lasts for approximately 8 minutes. The daily ritual attracts many spectators so it’s best to arrive slightly early to gain a front row view of this age old ceremony in front of the Royal entrance on Palace Square. The officers all looked very smart in black uniforms with red stripes, this is their winter attire as they have two seasonal uniforms, the summer one being white.
The Palace Guards is one of the smallest armies in the world alongside that of the Vatican with 119 officers providing protection for Prince Albert II and his family. Viewing the daily Changing of the Guards ceremony is one of Monaco’s main attractions and I’m so pleased we had an opportunity to witness it.
After the ceremony had ended we took in the stunning views of Monaco and its beautiful harbour from the various viewpoints on The Rock. After taking lots of photos we wandered along the maze of picturesque narrow streets that form Monaco-Ville, lined with cafes, patisseries and gift shops.
Soon we had reached St. Nicholas Cathedral (entrance free) which has an elaborate interior featuring a Carrara marble altar. The cathedral is the final resting place of numerous members of the Grimaldi family including Princess Grace and her husband Prince Rainier.
Close by stands the Musée Océanographique de Monaco which is perched out on the cliff edge. The museum was built by Prince Albert I in 1910 and is devoted to the science of aquatic life and contains over 450 tropical species of fish and marine life.
From there we sauntered through the Saint Martin gardens with their lush vegetation of Mediterranean and exotic plants, cacti and succulents. I loved the use of red cyclamen for the pathway borders providing a bright splash of colour. Along the edge of the park are some spectacular views of the clear blue sea and the Port de Fontvieille and standing at one end of the gardens is a statue of Prince Albert I.
The pathway then led us downhill to Fontvieille which is the newest quarter of the principality developed on reclaimed land. Along here we past the Columbus Hotel which used to be owned by the former British F1 racing driver, David Coulthard. Continuing slightly further and we had reached the Princess Grace Rose Garden, created in memory of the former American actress Grace Kelly who died tragically in 1982 at the age of 52 after sustaining head injuries in a car crash.
After enjoying tea and cakes in a cafe we continued our tour of the Principality in the Condamine quarter starting with a visit to the open-air market with its array of stalls selling local delicacies, fruit, vegetables and flowers. Indoors, its food court offers a variety of local dishes including the local favourite Socca, a savoury flatbread made from chickpeas and barbajuan.
Continuing through La Condamine we explored the shops along the Rue Princesses Caroline and then gazed in awe at the size of the yachts in Port Hercules. This is the largest marina in Monaco and its only deep water harbour. The vast port covers over 40 acres with its luxurious craft glistening in the water. Along here we spotted the Formula 1 pit lane area and the start/finish straight of the famous motor racing circuit which takes place in May of each year,
From there we walked through the famous F1 tunnel that we had seen so often on our television screens. The Monaco Grand Prix street circuit is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown of motor racing and considered to be the ultimate test of driving skills.
Moving on, it was time to visit another of the Principality’s gardens, that of the Japanese Gardens. This delightful oasis of calm is free to visit and borders the waterfront. The gardens follow the Zen design principles resembling the ones found in Japan and feature ponds stocked with koi carp, waterfalls and pagodas.
A little further and we had reached the Plage du Larvotto where we strolled along its newly refurbished seafront promenade. This beautiful beach is located just south east of Monte Carlo and borders Roquebrune Cap Martin. The beach stretches for 400 metres with two coves of fine pebbles lapping the crystal clear blue water. Unlike many resorts on the Côte d’Azur, Larvotto is a public beach meaning there is no charge to sunbathe or take a dip in the Mediterranean. To one side stands the geometric glass facade of the Grimaldi Forum, a modern conference and congress centre.
Our walking tour of Monaco then brought us to Monte Carlo, the most famous quarter of all, home to the world famous casino. The Place du Casino has recently undergone redevelopment into a modern esplanade designed to showcase the surrounding Belle Epoque buildings. The new design comprises a paved area with fountains, palm trees and a sky mirror sculpture which looked just as beautiful from either side.
The casino opened in 1863 as a bid to bring tourists and income into the principality. Admission to Monte Carlo casino is €17 which includes a €10 voucher allowing guests to either place a bet or buy a drink from the bar. Monaco nationals are not permitted to either work or gamble here as only foreign passport holders are allowed access.
To one side of Casino Square stands the Café de Paris. This famous cafe has a large sun terrace and is the perfect place for people watching whilst sipping expensive cups of coffee. Facing the cafe is the equally opulent Hotel de Paris which boasts fine dining restaurants, bars and a private beach that has featured in several films including James Bond’s Never Say Never and Golden Eye.
The Jardins de La Petite Afrique are a tropical garden located on a gentle slope just behind casino square, midway between the casino and the tourist office. The gardens contains lush vegetation and would be an ideal spot for a picnic if you wish to avoid the high prices of Monte Carlo’s cafes. The park runs alongside Le Jardin des Boulingrins with its magnificent water jets.
Before taking the bus back to Nice from the road behind the casino we found time for a spot of window shopping in the high-end Metropole Shopping Centre. As could be expected, it boasted a luxurious interior with its glittering chandeliers and designer stores.
We only had to wait a few minutes for a bus to arrive and it was a good idea boarding at the casino as by the time the bus had reached Place d’Armes where we had got off, it was already full with some passengers needing to stand.
It was good to rest our feet after a busy day walking around the principality but it had definitely been worthwhile as we had enjoyed a lovely time without breaking the budget, proving that a day in Monaco does not need to be any more expensive than elsewhere.
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