Whilst staying in Helsinki recently we planned a two day Roundtrip Cruise to Stockholm. Cruise ferries depart daily at 4.45 p.m. and arrive in Stockholm the next morning enabling visitors to spend a day in the Swedish capital before returning to the ferry for the return voyage.
Embarkation:
Tallink-Silja Line have two identical cruise ferries operating on this route named Symphony and Serenade. They have been in service since 1990 but with numerous updates still offer a high quality experience. The ships are sizeable and able to accommodate up to 2,852 passengers in 986 cabins with room for 395 cars.
The ferries depart from Helsinki’s Olympia Terminal which is just a short walk from the city’s vibrant market square and also accessible by tram lines 2 or 3 (single tickets €2.95). Passengers are permitted to board the ferry from 3.30 p.m. so we arrived around 30 minutes early to print out our tickets and boarding passes from a self-service check-in machine, counters also available if preferred. Our boarding passes also doubled up as disposable room keys with our cabin number and deck printed on them. The Olympia Terminal is spacious and has cafe facilities and seating in the departure lounge whilst waiting to board.
At 3.30 p.m. promptly we passed through the boarding gate just needing to show our passports for identification purposes before progressing on board.
The gangway entrance leads onto the impressive 143m long Promenade Deck where we were welcomed on board by the Silja Line mascot, Harry the Seal.
We then took one of the four glass lifts which are positioned at each corner of the ship, up to our cabin on the 11th deck.
To access our corridor we needed to tap on the outer glass door as entry is only permitted for deluxe cabin guests, keeping the corridor quiet and preventing other passengers walking through.
Cabins:
We had been booked into an outside Deluxe Cabin which was elegant and much more spacious than standard cabins and resembled a high end hotel room. Rather than the usual twin beds our cabin boasted a king size double bed, bedside tables and a large wall mounted television. As the cabin measured 14m2 there was also space for a sofa which could be converted into an extra bed for an accompanying child.
The large window had a sea view and continued the nautical theme with its blue and white striped curtains. Facing the bed was a large dressing table/desk with telephone, mirror and hairdryer. Beneath the desk we found a complimentary minibar containing sparkling wine, beer, soft drinks and water. Near the door was a good sized wardrobe and ample storage for our luggage.
Moving into the en-suite bathroom this contained a good sized shower which worked well, fluffy bath towels and luxurious Molton Brown toiletries. Wi-Fi worked extremely well and with such a comfortable cabin and lovely views leaving both Helsinki and Stockholm we spent more time relaxing in the cabin before dinner than when we had travelled in other classes. Included in the deluxe room rate is a ‘special breakfast’ which is served in a smaller, more exclusive restaurant than the main buffet.
The ferry feels like a cruise ship as passengers retain the same cabin for the return trip so we were able to leave belongings safely on board whilst spending the day in Stockholm. An added advantage of booking a deluxe cabin or above is that they are serviced daily in readiness for return crossings.
Other types of cabin are available to suit all budgets, ranging from inside B & C class cabins on the lower decks without windows to the very popular Promenade deck cabins. These have windows overlooking the ship’s promenade so that you can look out and see what’s going on and be enchanted with the changing shades of lighting.
Also available are family room and Moomin cabins which are decorated with the Finnish fairy-tale characters. For those passengers wishing to celebrate a special occasion then I recommend one of the swish deluxe cabins, suites or commodore class cabins as passengers receive hotel quality accommodation whilst they are travelling between the Nordic capitals.
On-board facilities:
Sun Deck (Deck 12)
This is the best place for photo opportunities of the Helsinki skyline when leaving port. It’s accessed by heading to the back of the ship and then taking the lift up to Deck 12 to go outdoors. As the boat is quite sizeable there is a large expanse of deck to explore which is lovely in summertime.
We sat outdoors enjoying a drink whilst taking in the views of the UNESCO Suomenlinna Fortress soon after departure. The passageway through the fortress is very narrow and as the ship needs to navigate this stretch very slowly there are superb views from the ship’s top deck over the fortress.
Seaview Lounge (Deck 8) and Promenade (Deck 7)
The attractive Seaview Lounge can be found at the front of the ship and this is the perfect place to sit and watch the ferry depart when it’s not so hot and sunny outdoors.
The promenade deck is the central hub of the cruise ship and is lined with a variety of designer and gift shops with several restaurants and bars to choose from including Grill House, Happy Lobster, Tapas, Promenade Bar and the Bon Vivant fine dining restaurant.
Live music takes place on a stage along here each evening and with all the wall lights changing colour to imitate the northern lights it’s a great place to stroll and to soak up the atmosphere. Also to be found on this deck is the information kiosk where you can make enquiries and book city centre transfers.
The Grande Buffet (Deck 6)
In addition to the more intimate dining experiences on board the ship, the Grande Buffet is by far the most popular and I recommend feasting on the abundant selection of dishes in at least one direction. Although not essential, it’s preferable to pre-book a dinner reservation as it is slightly cheaper and a reserved table will be assigned to you.
If you book the dinner and breakfast package for both outward and return there are even more savings to be had. Also, if you only wish to enjoy the buffet one way the voucher can be redeemed in any of the other restaurants on board up to the buffet value.
The buffet has two sittings at 4.45 p.m. and 7.30 p.m. with the earlier one being ideal for parents with young children. We had reserved a table for the later sitting and enjoyed the vast array of high quality dishes with an emphasis on Nordic flavours along with a selection of international dishes. There’s also plenty of options for vegetarian, vegan and gluten free diners. With a good choice of desserts, a chocolate fountain with fresh fruit, ice creams and delicious Finnish Fazer chocolates, we were spoilt for choice. Wine, beer and soft drinks are readily available on tap and included in the buffet price making it a very good priced meal in comparison to local restaurants.
A special breakfast is served each morning for Deluxe Class passengers in the stylish Tavoláta restaurant located on Deck 6. It was a perfect start to the day as we were shown to a window table, offered glasses of sparkling wine and had coffee served to our table. We then helped ourselves to the breakfast buffet which was just as good as we had experienced in four star hotels with its array of both Nordic and international flavours.
For passengers staying in most other cabins breakfast is served each morning from 7.30 until 9.30 a.m. in the Grande Buffet where there are lots of tempting items to set you up for the day from delicious poached salmon, to cold meats, eggs, yoghurts, fruit, pastries, juice and hot drinks.
Tax Free Superstore (Deck 6)
This vast superstore is on the same level as the Grande Buffet and contains beer, wines, spirits, chocolates, gifts, cosmetics and designer goods all at affordable tax free prices, with considerable savings from the shops of Stockholm or Helsinki. For passengers with cars large saver packs are available and on our return to Helsinki we bought some wine and chocolates to enjoy during the remaining few days of our holiday.
Starlight (Decks 7 and 8)
At 7.00 p.m. and 9.00 p.m. each evening live entertainment takes place in Starlight. During our trip we were enthralled by a top class dance performance and when this had finished the stage lowered to create a dance floor where a live band played until the early hours. Whether you wish to dance or not, the music is uplifting with classic hits that everyone enjoys.
Day in Stockholm
After a smooth crossing and a good night’s sleep in our cabin we opened the curtains to a view of the boat passing through the scenic Stockholm archipelago. After breakfast at 10.00 a.m. Silja Symphony docked at the Värtahamnen ferry pier and it was just a short walk from the terminal to Bus 76 which provides a regular service to the Djurgârden bridge in just 15 minutes. Close to there are many of the city’s main attractions. Details of local transport tickets can be found here. We found that we had plenty of time to visit the following three attractions without needing to rush around.
VASA Museum
VASA is one of Stockholm’s top tourist attractions with one million visitors every year and up to 1,500 at any one time so it’s a good idea to head there first before it gets too busy. Although the museum receives large numbers of visitors there is ample room for everyone to look around as the hall is huge and the historic ship can be viewed from numerous levels.
The VASA warship was intended for a major role in the Swedish Navy but sadly the ship sank shortly after embarking on her maiden voyage in 1628. After laying at the bottom of Stockholm harbour for 333 years she was carefully brought back to the surface in 1961. The oxygen free water of the Baltic Sea protected the ship and miraculously up to 95 per cent of its wood was still intact. Preserving the ship then took almost 30 years with the VASA finally going on display in its current location in 1990. VASA is adorned with more than 700 carved sculptures and is a unique treasury of art. The rear of the ship features an ornate stern castle with two angels holding the ship’s coat of arms. I started taking photos from the ground floor level but realised later that the best views seemed to be from the top of the building looking down. In addition to viewing the ship, each floor contains relics that have been salvaged including pieces of the mainsail and ropes. VASA Museum
Nordiska Museum
The Nordiska Museum is located in a gorgeous old building dating back to 1907 just steps away from VASA. The museum was established at a time when Swedish society was changing rapidly and industrialisation had occurred. Artur Hazelius, its founder believed it was necessary to collect and save objects and relics that could tell a story to future generations about life and work in pre-industrialised Sweden. Wandering around we explored Swedish fashion, textiles, jewellery, furniture, toys, folk art and porcelain. The museum has something to interest everyone from paintings, sculptures and table settings to home layouts all housed in this beautiful building. Nordiska Museum
Skansen Open-Air Museum
It was then just a 10 minute walk to the Skansen Open-Air Museum, and as it was such a sunny day it was the perfect time to visit. After picking up a map from the information kiosk we started exploring the village and church areas. Next we explored the Älvros Farmstead, a self sufficient farm which has been relocated from northern Sweden and dates back to the early 19th century. In many of the buildings we found museum staff dressed in traditional costumes baking bread and attending to the everyday chores of those days.
Climbing a steep slope up to the Öland windmills we enjoyed the panoramic views of the sea approach to Stockholm and stopped awhile for something to eat at Skansen Terrassen before returning to the boat. Skansen open-air museum
We then enjoyed Silja Symphony’s facilities once again for our return journey. What a wonderful time we’d had on the cruise ferry trip, and whether it’s summer or winter I’d definitely recommend adding the excursion to your itinerary if you are staying in either Helsinki or Stockholm as you are then able to explore a second Nordic capital whilst travelling in style. Cabins vary in price depending on class and season but are often cheaper than a hotel stay making the trip both good value and lots of fun.
