Skipton is often referred to as the ‘Gateway to the Dales’ due to its close proximity to the Yorkshire Dales National Park. With its historic castle, bustling market and picturesque canal basin, the town is a lovely place to visit and we were excited to be spending a short break exploring the area.
We arrived in Skipton mid morning making our first stop at Skipton Castle which has stood proudly at the top of the high street for over 900 years. After leaving our car in the Bailey car park adjacent to the castle (£4.50 all day) we were soon entering the castle through its impressive gatehouse. Standard adult admission £11.20. The castle was established to suppress opposition to Norman rule in the north of England and was constructed in 1090 by a Norman baron before later coming into the Clifford family’s ownership.
Tours are self-guided with the aid of a laminated map which led us through the main rooms including the vast banqueting hall where Lord and Lady Clifford would have entertained.
We also viewed the kitchen, bedchambers and privy before climbing the winding stone steps up to the watchtower from where the stronghold would have been defended. After taking in the far reaching views from the top we descended down to the dark and dismal dungeons in the very bottom of the castle.
Many of the rooms overlook the beautiful Conduit Court. At its centre stands a 350 year old yew tree which was planted by Lady Anne Clifford who must have had green fingers, as it is still thriving to this day.
The castle grounds are also impressive with their manicured lawns, ruined chapel, picnic areas and tea rooms making the castle a delightful place to spend a couple of hours. Skipton Castle.
Running along the northern edge of the castle in a valley lie the Castle Woods so we decided to explore there next. There are three walking routes to choose from ranging from easy to moderately strenuous so we decided to follow the moderate ‘blue’ route.
As there had been recent rain, the woods were looking very lush and verdant and with the aroma of wild garlic drifting by, it was a very pleasant place for a pre-lunch stroll. Along the trails two sculptures made from willow can be found.
After completing our trail we stepped into Holy Trinity Church which stands next to the castle overlooking the high street. The church has strong links to Richard III, Lady Anne Clifford and of course the castle.
It’s worth taking a look inside to view its beautiful stained glass windows, intricately carved choir stalls and ancient oak pews with individual doors.
We then felt ready for some lunch and there’s nowhere better in the centre of Skipton than it’s famous fish and chip shop Bizzie Lizzies. This multi award winning restaurant and takeaway has been a winner of the National Fish & Chip awards and people come from far and wide for a tasty meal. There are two branches in town with one overlooking the canal and this was where we’d booked a table for lunch. We were shown to a window table in their bright, airy restaurant and with only a cursory glance at the menu we couldn’t resist their classic cod and chips served with a side of mushy peas and accompanied by a pot of tea and bread and butter.
It’s easy to see why Bizzie Lizzies is so popular as our fish tasted delicious, coated in a light, crisp batter and served with a generous portion of chips. Seated by the window, we enjoyed watching canal boats and pleasure cruisers pass by and it was on to one of these that we were heading next.
Boat trips start from the canal basin, just around the corner from the cafe and we’d reserved places on one of their one hour cruises which are excellent value at only £9.50. We arrived around 10 minutes before the departure time and after exchanging our on-line tickets for boarding passes in the office we joined a long queue to get on board. I was expecting that we’d just end up with middle seats but was pleasantly surprised to discover that tickets include reserved seats which was a great bonus.
Once underway, a recorded commentary began with lots of information and fun facts about the Leeds Liverpool canal which is the longest in the country at 127 miles in length and took 46 years to build. The canal carried coal, stone, wool, cotton and other goods throughout the 19th century and is now used for pleasure cruising.
Tours set off in the Leeds direction passing old Victorian mills that have now been repurposed into attractive waterside apartments. Leaving the mills behind, there are lovely views of the rolling countryside and lots of wildlife to be seen.
We spotted a heron although I wasn’t quick enough to manage to take a photo of it but ducks and geese were easier to capture. Our journey took us through one swing bridge before the boat turned around at Snaygill. Light refreshments are available to purchase on board with themed boat trips also available.
After enjoying our boat trip we wandered back up the high street where the market stalls lined both sides of the high street on a cobbled section known as “setts”. The Royal Charter from King John granted the town the right to hold a ‘fair’ on four days each week and this continues to this day each Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Stall holders offer household items, textiles, olives, fresh produce, plants and flowers. Being a cheese lover we paused for a look at Lawson’s cheese stall as it offers a wonderful selection of local cheese, biscuits cakes and chutneys.
Just beyond the church is the long established Stanforth’s butchers where there is often a queue outside the door for one of their award winning pork pies.
We couldn’t manage one then after our fish and chips but I’d highly recommend them as we’ve bought them in the past.
Moving on, we crossed the road to the town hall so that we could visit the Craven Museum and Gallery which is free to visit and documents Craven’s history with photos, costumes, art and furniture. There’s an interesting section on Dewhurst’s cotton mill which opened in 1829 as a spinning and weaving operation producing bobbins of the well known Sylko sewing thread.
The mill has long since gone but nostalgic memories remain as it provided a livelihood for many local residents. The museum is definitely worthy of a short visit and with the town hall also being home to the local tourist information, it’s a good place to pick up leaflets and make enquiries.
Before returning to the car we popped into the Craven Court Shopping Centre located just off the high street. This beautiful two tier shopping mall was created from a 16th century theatre and its original stone walls create a traditional backdrop to its attractive mix of small shops and cafes. Filled with small independents and high street favourites including Crew Clothing, it’s an absolute gem and not to be missed.
It was then time to check into our accommodation at The Tempest Arms located just a 15 minute drive from Skipton in the village of Elslack. This newly refurbished 17th century country inn is nestled in beautiful countryside on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales and has 21 bedrooms, suites and a restaurant.
With an oak floor and palette of neutral shades our Beckside suite had a gorgeous Scandi uncluttered feel. It was light and airy with windows to two sides and a pair of French windows opening out onto a private, secluded garden. There was a freestanding bath to one side of the bed along with a well proportioned en-suite bathroom.
We’d reserved a table for dinner at 7.00 p.m. in the inn’s cosy restaurant. The menu comprises a good choice of pub classics and our starters of crab crostini and onion bhajis were very flavoursome and nicely plated. Mains of Lancashire cheese pie and sea bass and prawns were equally tasty and we were so full that for once we declined a dessert. The end of a lovely day exploring Skipton.
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