Guernsey is located 27 miles off the French coast of Normandy and benefits from a mild climate with warm, sunny days from May through to September. It’s the second largest of the Channel Islands with several smaller islands forming the Bailwick of Guernsey including Alderney, Sark and Herm, making it an ideal destination for an island hopping holiday. Although not part of the UK, Guernsey is a self-governing British Crown dependency with its own government (the States of Guernsey), its own parliament and laws. The island prints its own banknotes but it is not a separate currency, just a local issue of Sterling. Unlike the mainland, all post boxes are painted blue except for one in St. Peter Port which is the oldest in the British Isles and since 1940 the island has printed its own stamps.
Getting there:
Guernsey’s national airline Aurigny operate flights from London and most regional airports, taking as little as 30 minutes from Southampton. We flew from Leeds-Bradford airport which operates twice weekly seasonal flights between May and September with a flight time of 1 hour 40 minutes. Service on board Aurigny is good and an on-board trolley service available.
We began our holiday in style opting for glasses of Guernsey’s Blue Bottle artisan gin which was very refreshing. For a small airline, it’s in-flight magazine En Voyage excels and what with sipping our G & T’s, reading the magazine and gazing out of the window, we were touching down into Guernsey airport before we knew it. We’d left Leeds on a damp, dreary morning wearing coats but on landing in Guernsey we were greeted with warm sunshine which was just what we needed after all the wet weather back at home. Being a small airport and part of the British Isles there was no passport control and we just needed to collect our bags from the luggage carousel, meaning that we were stepping into a taxi within 15 minutes ready to start our island adventure.
Guernsey covers an area of 24 sq. miles and is 6 miles (10 km) long and 3 miles (5 km) wide, which means that it doesn’t take very long to get anywhere but there is definitely lots to see. Visitors to the island have the option of hiring cars from the airport, using taxis or making use of the excellent local bus service which connects St. Peter Port with all the main attractions, beaches and the airport. Single fares are £1.50 with day tickets and weekly passes also available. Timetables and further details can be found here. Please note that if you decide to hire a car that the roads are quite narrow and you will most probably need to reverse occasionally to allow vehicles to pass, but as the maximum speed limit is only 35 mph you shouldn’t have any problems.
Stay:
Guernsey has a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets from luxury hotels to cosy B&B’s and picture perfect holiday cottages. We opted to stay at the beautiful Les Douvres country house hotel which was only a 10 minute drive from the airport, located in the south east of the island.
On a quiet leafy lane and set within its own grounds, the hotel boasts a solar heated open air swimming pool and beautifully manicured gardens. Rooms are furnished in a contemporary New England style with a welcoming seaside vibe. The hotel has a restaurant popular with both guests and locals alike that offers delicious, reasonably priced food and drink with live entertainment on Friday evenings.
See and Do
St. Peter-Port
I suggest starting your island tour by spending a day in St. Peter-Port, the charming small capital that’s simply referred to as ‘town’. We’d arranged to join a morning walking tour with Gill, one of the island’s accredited tour guides who led us around the centre explaining the island’s history and pointing out many interesting buildings, statues, etc. that we would probably not have noticed had we just wandered around by ourselves.
Sharing a bench with GIll, one of the Guernsey walking guides and a statue of Victor Hugo
I always find guided walking tours an excellent way of getting your bearings in a new place not to mention the wealth of information you learn as you walk along the winding streets and alleyways.
Liberation Monument
Take time to read the engravings surrounding the Liberation Monument, built to commemorates the anniversary of Guernsey’s liberation from German occupying forces. The monument comprises an obelisk and sundial made of 50 layers of granite. This has been designed to represent the 50 years since Guernsey was liberated in 1945, to the point the monument was commissioned in 1995.
Candie Gardens
A gentle uphill stroll leads to the Candie Gardens on the edge of town. The gardens were established in 1894 in the grounds of Candie House and are free to visit. Lovingly restored between 1998-1999, they provide a rare example of a Victorian public pleasure garden.
Two notable statues grace the gardens, the first is of Queen Victoria which was unveiled in 1900 to mark her Diamond Jubilee.
The second is of French poet and novelist Victor Hugo and was presented to Guernsey by the French Government in gratitude for the hospitality shown to him after being exiled from France for opposing Napoleon III in 1855. He lived at Hauteville House in St Peter Port between 1856 and 1870 and this was where he wrote some of his most celebrated works including Les Misérables. The house is open to the public but unfortunately we did not have an opportunity to visit.
There’s also an attractive cafe in the upper part of the gardens from where you can enjoy good views whilst enjoying a morning cup of coffee.
Guernsey Museum at Candie
The Guernsey Museum is situated in the upper gardens and contains several interesting galleries focusing on the Early People, Folklore, the Guernsey language and Collecting the World which displays some of the most exotic and beautiful objects from the Museum’s reserve collection. The building is also home to an art gallery and gift shop. Standard admission £7 Guernsey Museum at Candie.
Victoria Tower
Another reason to visit the Guernsey Museum is to collect the key to the nearby Victoria Tower. Guernsey people are very trustworthy and all you have to do is to ask nicely at the information desk and then you can sign out the key for a maximum of 30 minutes allowing ample time to climb the 99 steps to the top and to take in the views.
We collected the key, unlocked the old wooden door, found the light switch and then huffed and puffed our way to the top. This was a bit of an exaggeration as it was actually quite easy as it had wide stone steps and viewing galleries on two floors to explore and rest before continuing upwards.
We were fortunate to visit on a clear day and were rewarded with far reaching views over St. Peter Port and across the bay to the islands of Herm and Sark.
The Guernsey Tapestry
Located downhill towards the centre stands the Guernsey Tapestry Gallery. Inside you will find the Guernsey Millennium Tapestry, a project that involved the entire community. 1,000 years of local history are depicted across ten exquisitely embroidered panels, each one covering one century.
The panels were stitched by the residents of the Bailwick (Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm) with each one bearing the crest of the parish that stitched it.
It really is beautiful to view and has been brought to life by an audio guide which is available in English, French and German. There’s even a tapestry where visitors can add their own stitches which was lovely to see. Standard admission £6 Guernsey Tapestry.
Castle Cornet
Visit the 800 year old castle which guards the entrance to St. Peter-Port harbour. The castle provides a fascinating insight into the island’s history along with spectacular views back towards the town. There’s much to see as the castle comprises the Story of Castle Cornet, 201 Squadron RAF Museum, the Royal Guernsey Light Infantry Museum and the Royal Guernsey Militia Museum. Outside, explore the castle grounds including its four historic gardens. I would recommend allowing 3 hours to see everything. Standard admission £11.
Exploring the coast:
The entire coastline of Guernsey is beautiful and I can’t recall anywhere else where I’ve only been able to walk a few paces without needing to keep stopping to take more photos as the tranquil bays with their crystal clear water and fine, golden sand are absolutely stunning. With so many idyllic coves to choose from, I’ve limited my selection down to a couple, but believe me they are all sublime!
Cobo Bay
On our first evening we decided to follow the Coastal Memories Walk which we downloaded free from the Visit Guernsey Walking App. This provides step-by-step instructions for exploring the island on foot. Our walk began at the headland of Fort Hommet and passed through the Guet Forest.
Here we were able to view wartime German fortifications that Hitler ordered to be built to convert the Channel Islands into an impregnable fortress as part of his infamous ‘Atlantic Wall’. The Channel Islands were the only parts of the British Isles which were invaded and occupied by German forces during the Second World War. Every year, on 9th May Guernsey celebrates its liberation from occupying forces.
Continuing along the bayside path, with the azure blue waters to one side and fields of wildflowers to the other, it was blissful. It was low tide and the perfect opportunity to explore some rock pools and collect a few sea shells. Guernsey’s tidal range of 33ft is one of the largest in the world and transforms the coastline every six hours or so. This is due to the island’s location in the Bay of St Malo, which has the highest tides in Europe.
With the tempting Rockmount seafront restaurant and the popular ’Cobo Fish Bar’, it’s a great spot to watch a glorious west coast sunset.
Moulin Huet Bay
It was just a short walk to Moulin Huet Bay from our hotel but is easily located either by car or bus if you are staying in another part of the island as there is a car park leading to the coastal path along the south coast. I was blown away by how beautiful Moulin Huet was and it felt as though I had been transported to the Caribbean with its crystal clear turquoise shallow waters and stunning cliff top views.
Wemade good use of the excellent Visit Guernsey Walking App once again by following the Renoir Walk to discover where the famous artist Renoir got his inspiration from. Renoir spent just over a month on Guernsey in 1883 where he worked on 15 paintings all depicting the breathtaking views of Moulin Huet so it was a treat to follow in his footsteps.
The trail has been created in homage to the French impressionist painter and is marked by five empty picture frames which have been placed in the exact spots where Renoir worked on his own paintings. Next to each frame is a panel providing further information.
The ornate picture frames are beautiful and were specially commissioned to echo the frames the artist chose for his own artworks. As well as following the art trail, the short hike takes in some of the islands most spectacular views.
After completing the trail relax with a coffee and pastry in the idyllic setting of the Renoir Tea Garden with its stunning views. We fitted in the visit to Moulin Huet just before heading back to the airport and with its idyllic setting I almost had to be dragged back to the hotel to collect my luggage as I adored it there so much.
Go Island Hopping
Ferries operate regular services from St. Peter-Port to both Herm and Sark and with journey times of under 55 minutes, it’s a perfect opportunity to go island hopping. I’ll soon be posting in-depth posts on both of these islands but below you can discover why they are so special and worthy of a visit.
Sark
Sark is the larger of the two islands and an unmissable experience with its unspoilt landscape, no cars and unpaved roads. Start your adventure there by hopping on the tractor bus that takes visitors up the steep harbour hill to the Avenue (village centre). (£1.50 cash only). It’s affectionately known as the ‘Toast Rack’ and is great fun to ride.
From the Avenue you can either travel around the island by horse and cart, bicycle or like us, use shanks pony and walk everywhere. Allow a full day for exploring the island and with varied accommodation available you can stay overnight if you wish. I couldn’t get over how peaceful the island was without traffic, just being able to hear the chirping of the birds, rustling of leaves and the gentle sound of waves coming into the shore.
Highlights include the Window in the Rock, a scenic spot on the west coast where a hole has been cut in the cliff face with stunning cliff top views. Do take care as there is a sheer drop on the other side.
The other unmissable highlight is La Coupee, a pleasant 25 minute walk from the Avenue along tree lined narrow lanes. I can’t recommend visiting here highly enough as the narrow path linking Big Sark to Little Sark is absolutely stunning.
Explore the Seigneurie Gardens set within the grounds of a 17th century Manor House. The garden is considered one of the finest in the Channel Islands and contains many unusual half hardy plants that thrive within the walled garden, ensuring a colourful display from spring to autumn. Standard admission £8. La Seigneurie Gardens
Located to one side of the gardens is Hathaways Tea Rooms where you can enjoy lunch both indoors or outside on its delightful terrace.
There’s a varied daily menu with something for everyone. I couldn’t resist fresh crab sandwiches with a side of chips which tasted delicious accompanied by my Aperol Spritz.
Herm
Ferries to Herm take approximately 25 minutes and as the island is much smaller than Sark you could easily see most of it in half a day. Herm is car free and as it measures only 1.5 square miles we had ample time to follow the coastal path around the entire island, pausing frequently to take photos and admire the stunning views.
Don’t miss beautiful Shell Beach on the north east side of the island where you can call into the beach cafe overlooking the bay for some delicious crab sandwiches or an ice cream whilst gazing out across the azure waters of the bay. Slightly further on, Belvoir Bay is equally beautifully with its fine white sand and crystal clear water. Here you’ll find a kiosk serving light snacks, ice creams and drinks. Another gorgeous place to sit and relax.
Shopping
St. Peter Port is a shoppers paradise with its range of small independent shops and British favourites such as Marks & Spencer and Boots along its narrow, cobblestone streets. The town’s pedestrianised high street runs parallel with the Esplanade with the Old Quarter being just a few minutes walk from there. Here you will find small boutiques, craft and jewellery stores. Guernsey is a VAT free island so substantial savings can be made on jewellery and luxury goods.
Dining:
Dining out on Guernsey is a delight especially if you are a fan of seafood like me. Local oysters cost a fraction of the price compared to mainland U.K. making them an affordable island treat. Enjoy waterside views, glorious sunsets and most importantly the freshest, locally sourced food possible. During our stay we dined at:
Balthazar – this steak and seafood restaurant overlooks St. Peter Port harbour and has an attractive terrace adorned with flowers.
The interior is contemporary styled and a good choice for lunch or dinner. We enjoyed a delicious lunch selecting oysters followed by crab salad from the reasonably priced lunchtime terrace menu. Balthazar Restaurant
The Rockmount – this restaurant is affectionately known as “The Rocky” and commands stunning views across Cobo Bay. It’s very popular with locals so I’d recommend reserving a table in advance as it was busy mid week when we dined there.
It was one of my favourite places to dine on the island with its relaxed vibe and huge windows overlooking the bay. It’s also the perfect place to sip a cocktail whilst experiencing a glorious west coast sunset. Yet again I plumped for oysters followed by lamb which was one of the most flavoursome that I’ve sampled. Rockmount Restaurant and Bar
The Imperial Hotel – this hotel/restaurant is located at Rocquaine Bay, offering stunning sea views. After a stroll along the shingle beach we enjoyed a delicious meal in their New England style restaurant.
Again we made the most of the local seafood opting for pan fried scallops and fillets of sea bass followed by a platter of local cheese. Another lovely restaurant and one I’d definitely return to. Imperial Hotel
Overall:
Guernsey is an idyllic place to spend a holiday, I just don’t know why it had taken me so many years to realise that and visit! With its charming small capital, stunning coastline, pretty country lanes, warm weather, French influence and island hopping opportunities it feels much further away from mainland U.K. than it actually is making it an ideal destination for a short break or a relaxing longer stay.
